How much of a difference does a guitar neck shape make? A lot, and not as much as you might think. Let’s talk about some common guitar neck profiles and how to decide which is right for you. This is a general discussion that applies to both electric and acoustic guitar neck shapes.
Guitar Neck Shape Basics
Guitar neck shapes can be practically anything, provided that they are able to secure the frets and support the sting tension. When discussing neck shape, we’re referring to the shape and depth of the back of the neck, which is known as the neck shape, or profile. But there is more at work than just the profile—factors like fretboard radius, nut width, fingerboard wood, fret size, and the presence or absence of binding combine to create the experience of how the neck feels in your hand.
One key aspect of neck shape is what is referred to as the “shoulder”. This is the area that extends down from where the fretboard meets the neck, and in my opinion, has an outsized influence as to how the neck feels in your hand. Necks with significant shoulder often feel “fuller”, and bigger, and if you are used to a neck with little shoulder, such as a C-shape, the adjustment to a U-shape with more shoulder may take some time.
Common Neck Shapes
Here are some of the common neck shapes you will find on most production instruments.
U-Shape
U-shaped necks are the classic electric guitar neck shape, having been used on 1950s guitars such as the Telecaster and Gibson Les Paul. The coveted Les Paul “Bursts” from 1958-1960 are often said to have “Baseball Bat” necks, while vintage Teles are known for their beefy U-shape necks. The U-shape is characterized by a thicker feeling than many C-Shape, and often have more shoulder, resulting in a hand-filling feel. Fender and Gibson still spec these necks on reissues such as the ‘52 Telecaster and Les Paul. Vintage Teles sometimes measure 1” at the 12th fret!
C-Shape
The C-shaped neck is among the most common neck shapes today. Its appeal is in its even profile and moderate size, which appeals to many players. The C-Shape neck is found in various flavors, from the more traditional “Chunky” or Deep C, to the more modern Slim C. Both Fender and Gibson use a C-Shape neck on many of their core models, including the American Professional.
D-Shape
The D-shaped neck came to prominence in the 1980s and is the most modern feeling neck you’ll find. D-shape necks are generally thinner in depth, and many guitarists associate this with helping them play faster, which is why shredders favor the D-shape. The Ibanez Wizard neck is the most well known D-shape neck, and can be found on guitars like the famous RG550 and JEM models.
V-Shape
The V-shaped neck is one that players either really like, or can’t get on with. There are two variations of V necks, the Hard-V and Soft-V. Both shapes have a “V” design, but the point (bottom of the “V”) on the Soft V is more moderate. The idea with the V neck is that it has less shoulder than other designs, and some people find this very comfortable. The V-neck was more common in the past, and you don’t find hard V necks on many guitars today outside of faithful reissues. One notable mainstream guitar that has a Soft V neck is Fender’s Eric Clapton signature Stratocaster. I have played the Clapton neck and find it quite comfortable.
Warmoth Guitars has a great explanation of common neck shapes:
Measuring Neck Size and Depth
It’s a good idea to know the neck dimensions of guitars that you like. This way, you’ll have some data to back up your preferences. To measure neck dimensions, you’ll need a ruler and a digital caliper tool. Neck width should be measured with a ruler at the 1st and 12th fret. This measurement is also referred to as nut width. The Depth of a neck is measured using a digital caliper, and taken at the 1st and 12th frets. Neck depth is given both in inches and millimeters.
Prior to a few years ago, I didn’t own a caliper tool. Therefore, I had no idea of the depth of any of my guitar necks! When I started measuring my guitar necks, I was surprised at what I found. If you had me guess the sizes from smallest to largest, I would have been wrong.
For example, I had assumed that the neck on one of my guitars was small. When I measured it, I found that it measures nearly 1” at the 12th fret! This is a great example of how neck shape affects our perception of neck size. The neck is a Soft V shape, and its reduced shoulders make it feel slimmer than it is.
One helpful tip I’d like to add about Digital Calipers. I advise you to look for one that has plastic instead of metal on the caliper face. I have found that metal calipers are often sharp enough to leave marks on the back of the neck. Not worth it!
I can recommend this inexpensive digital caliper.
Additional Considerations
Here is our take few topics that get talked about a lot, and some myths around them.
Thumb placement on the back or over the neck.
Many people maintain that that certain neck shapes work better for those who play in with “classical” technique. Classical technique is defined as those who play with their thumb positioned the back of the middle of the neck. To be honest, we don’t put much stock in this. Everyone’s technique is individual, however. As for myself, I play both with my thumb on the back of the neck, and thumb over the neck. Your individual technique will depend on what you are playing, and what feels comfortable to you.
Myth: Slim Necks are Faster Playing
Since my main Strat for years had a Slim C neck shape, I became accustomed to playing this style of neck. It measures around .800 at the 1st fret. When I started getting into Telecasters, my immediate reaction was how I was supposed to play on these chunky necks! While it admittedly took some time to get used to, I am happy to play on both now.
I have also found that the idea that thinner necks = speed is an illusion. Your technique may be different on a thicker neck, but I have not found any noticeable differences in my ability to execute any musical passage.
Myth: You Can Have Only One Ideal Neck Shape and Size
This one bugs me because I see it often mentioned by amateur players far more than pro players. Memo to bedroom guitarists (and I am one): Is your technique really that dialed in that you cannot switch between neck types? The reality is that every guitar requires slightly different adjustments. Many technique hand adjustments are extremely minor, and you do them without realizing it.
Instead of insisting on one neck type, why not expand your options? Accepting that you will need to alter your technique for various guitar neck shapes will allow you to comfortably play different types of guitars.
Best Neck Shapes for Small Hands
People talk about this one a lot, but we don’t advise putting much stock in it. Different guitar neck shapes feel the way they do because of the many variables involved, so it’s not wise to limit yourself based on what you think you may or may not work for you. Like the idea of having only one ideal neck shape, our preferences often reflect what we are accustomed to. Unless your hands are quite a bit smaller than average, I would not worry too much about neck size, provided you are staying in the middle of the range of sizes. Don’t underestimate your ability to play a bigger neck! Many players have come from a background of thin necks and learned to love the hand-filling comfort of a chunky profile.
Neck Shape and its Effect on Tone
While the shape won’t necessarily affect the tone your guitar produces, many people believe that the neck size does. Specifically, some players maintain that thicker necks produce a more robust tone, which they attribute to increased mass of a larger neck. The jury is still out on this one, so use your own judgment.
Conclusion
There is no best guitar neck shape. Like anything, neck shape preference is very personal, and is highly influenced by what one is accustomed to. The most important takeaway is that neck shape doesn’t tell the whole story—it’s the combination of depth + shape that determines how a neck feels, along with the contributing factors I mentioned earlier (nut width, fret size, binding). Some neck shapes naturally appeal to more players, which is why they are popular. Fender makes many C shapes, which is easy to like and an all around favorite, and in contrast very few Hard-V shapes, which can be polarizing.
Initial judgements aren’t the whole story, and therefore I encourage you to be open-minded about neck shape and size. There are many benefits associated with the ability to play different necks.
Unfamiliar neck shapes can require an adjustment period, so don’t rush to judgement if a neck doesn’t feel perfect right away. There’s nothing wrong with giving it a spin and coming to the conclusion that a particular neck profile doesn’t work for you—nothing ventured, nothing gained. Happy Playing!